Why Edinburgh Old Town is a compelling place to stay
Stone closes dropping steeply off the Royal Mile, the sound of a distant bagpipe, the outline of Edinburgh Castle against a shifting sky – Old Town is where the city feels most concentrated. For a traveller flying out of Auckland or Wellington, this is the Edinburgh you pictured on the long-haul flight. Staying here means stepping straight into the historic core rather than commuting in from the suburbs.
The central location is the main draw. From most Old Town hotels, you can walk to the Royal Mile in a couple of minutes, reach Princes Street in under 10 minutes (around 600–800 metres), and be at Waverley train station via Market Street in roughly the same time. That walking distance advantage matters when you are jet-lagged, arriving by train from London, or catching the tram or bus to the Edinburgh Airport connection the next morning.
Atmosphere is the trade-off. The area is lively, sometimes noisy, and the streets can feel crowded in peak festival season. In return, you get a city stay where you can wander out after breakfast, turn a corner, and suddenly find yourself in a quiet courtyard off St Giles’ Cathedral or looking up at the dramatic views of Edinburgh from the terrace above Princes Street Gardens. For most New Zealand travellers, that immediacy justifies choosing an Edinburgh hotel in Old Town over a calmer but less characterful district.
Location, streets and getting around from Old Town
Cockburn Street curls down from the Royal Mile to Waverley station in a tight S-bend, lined with cafés and small shops. Many Old Town hotels sit either along this route or within a 5 to 10 minute walk (roughly 400–800 metres), which makes arrival by train straightforward. You step off at Edinburgh Waverley, cross the concourse, and within minutes you are wheeling your suitcase up towards your room rather than negotiating a long city transfer.
For airport access, the tram and airport bus both terminate near St Andrew Square and the Edinburgh Bus Station at the top of Leith Street, roughly a 10 to 15 minute walk from most Old Town addresses. It is not a door-to-door transfer, but it is manageable even with luggage if you are comfortable on cobbled streets and short hills. If you prefer to minimise walking, look for a hotel on the Old Town side that sits closer to North Bridge or the station exit on Market Street.
Once checked in, you can treat the town as your extended lobby. Castlehill and the upper Royal Mile are usually within a 10 minute walk, meaning you can visit Edinburgh Castle early, retreat to your room for a rest, then head out again for dinner without ever using public transport. Princes Street and the New Town grid lie just down the slope, so you can move between medieval closes and Georgian avenues in a single afternoon.
Types of stays: classic rooms, apartments and modern hotels
Converted town chambers, former bank buildings, and contemporary infill developments all coexist in Old Town. That mix gives you a choice between traditional rooms with thick stone walls and more modern hotel options with clean lines and larger windows. The decision is less about star rating and more about the style of stay you want after a long-haul flight from New Zealand.
If you value space and independence, serviced apartments tucked just off the Royal Mile or near the Grassmarket can work well. These often offer separate living areas, kitchenettes, and washing machines, which are useful on a multi-week Europe itinerary. Families or small groups may find that an apartment in the city centre gives them more flexibility than a conventional room, especially when jet lag hits at odd hours.
Travellers who prefer a hotel Edinburgh experience with a defined lobby, concierge-style service, and on-site dining will find several modern properties scattered between the Royal Mile and Cowgate. These contemporary buildings usually prioritise lifts, step-free access, and efficient layouts. In contrast, some older townhouses and chambers have more character but also more stairs, narrower corridors, and occasionally quirky room shapes. Decide whether charm or ease of movement matters more for your particular trip.
Rooms, views and what to expect inside
Rooms in Old Town tend to follow the street pattern – irregular, layered, sometimes surprisingly vertical. A “city view” room might look across to Calton Hill, down towards Princes Street, or into a canyon of slate roofs and chimneys. If views of Edinburgh are a priority, pay close attention to room descriptions and floor levels, as some lower floors face internal courtyards or tight lanes rather than open vistas of the castle.
Space is the main compromise. Many buildings pre-date modern planning, so standard rooms can feel compact compared with newer properties on the outskirts of the city. For a longer stay, especially if you are travelling from New Zealand with larger luggage, consider upgrading to a superior or corner room category. The extra square metres make a noticeable difference when you are unpacking winter coats and storing suitcases.
Sound insulation varies. Streets like the Royal Mile and the Grassmarket can be lively late into the evening, particularly during August festivals and weekend nights. If you are sensitive to noise, look for rooms facing inner courtyards or quieter side streets, or ask specifically about glazing and room orientation. In exchange, you wake up in the middle of town, step outside, and within a minute walk you are back among closes, spires, and the steep climb up to Edinburgh Castle.
Breakfast culture and nearby food options
Breakfast in Old Town leans towards hearty rather than delicate. Many hotels offer a cooked Scottish breakfast included in certain room rates, with eggs, grilled tomatoes, mushrooms, and often haggis or black pudding alongside lighter continental options. For a New Zealand traveller used to strong coffee and fresh produce, it is worth checking how flexible the breakfast offering is – whether they can accommodate lighter plates or earlier sittings before a train.
If you prefer to explore, the lanes around the Royal Mile and South Bridge are dense with cafés and bakeries. Within a 5 to 10 minute walk you can find porridge with local oats, simple rolls to take on a day trip, or a more modern brunch with good espresso. Staying in an apartment gives you the option to self-cater, picking up basics from small supermarkets on Jeffrey Street or along Nicolson Street and building your own routine rather than relying on breakfast included in the room rate.
Evening dining is equally close at hand. Old Town offers everything from traditional pubs on the Cowgate to more contemporary restaurants near the university quarter. The advantage of a central location is clear – you can linger over dinner, then walk back to your hotel in under 10 minutes without worrying about late-night transport across the city. For many, that proximity is worth more than any marginal difference in price between districts.
Who Old Town suits best – and when to look elsewhere
Travellers who want to feel embedded in the city’s history will get the most from an Old Town stay. If you like to walk, to step out of your hotel and immediately be on a centuries-old street, this is the right location. The area works particularly well for first-time visitors from New Zealand who may only have two or three nights in Edinburgh and want to maximise time near the castle, the Royal Mile, and the main museums.
There are, however, clear trade-offs. Families with prams, travellers with limited mobility, or anyone who dislikes hills and cobbles may find the gradients tiring. In that case, a property closer to Princes Street or slightly into the New Town grid can offer flatter routes while still keeping you within walking distance of Old Town sights. Similarly, if you prefer quiet evenings and wider streets, New Town or areas further south around the Meadows may suit you better.
For rail-focused itineraries, staying near Waverley train station on the Old Town side offers a practical balance. You remain in the historic core but cut down the time between your room and the platforms to just a few minutes. If your trip involves multiple train stations or early departures to the airport, that convenience can outweigh the romance of a room higher up the hill with more dramatic views of Edinburgh but a longer walk.
Top Hotels in Edinburgh Old Town: is it the right area for your stay?
Choosing a hotel in Edinburgh Old Town makes sense if you value immersion in the historic centre, easy walking access to the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle, and Waverley station, and the ability to explore most major sights on foot. The area suits first-time visitors and short stays, especially for New Zealand travellers who want to minimise commuting across the city. If you prefer quieter streets, more spacious modern hotel layouts, or flatter terrain, consider neighbouring New Town or areas closer to Princes Street instead, but for atmosphere and central location Old Town remains the most characterful base.
FAQ
Is Edinburgh Old Town a good area to stay for first-time visitors?
Old Town is one of the best areas for first-time visitors because it places you within a short walk of the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle, the National Museum of Scotland, and Waverley train station. You can explore most major sights on foot, which is ideal if you are adjusting to jet lag and prefer not to navigate buses or trams on your first day.
How far is Old Town from the main train station and airport connections?
Most Old Town hotels sit within about a 5 to 10 minute walk of Waverley train station via Market Street or Cockburn Street. Airport connections by tram or bus terminate near the bus station and St Andrew Square, which is roughly a 10 to 15 minute walk away, depending on your exact location and the hill you need to climb.
Are Old Town streets suitable for travellers with limited mobility?
Many Old Town streets are steep, cobbled, and narrow, with frequent steps and uneven surfaces. Travellers with limited mobility may find this challenging, especially when moving luggage between the hotel and train stations. In such cases, staying closer to Princes Street or in the flatter New Town grid can be more comfortable while still keeping Old Town within walking distance or a short taxi ride.
What is the atmosphere like in Edinburgh Old Town at night?
Old Town is lively in the evenings, particularly around the Royal Mile, Grassmarket, and Cowgate, where pubs and restaurants stay busy. During festival periods, crowds can be dense and noise levels higher late into the night. If you prefer quieter nights, look for rooms facing inner courtyards or choose a hotel slightly removed from the busiest streets.
Is it better to stay in Old Town or New Town for a short city break?
Old Town is better if you want immediate access to historic sights and do not mind hills or busier streets. New Town excels if you prefer wider pavements, a more regular street grid, and slightly calmer evenings while remaining within easy walking distance of Old Town. For a short city break focused on heritage and atmosphere, most visitors choose Old Town as their base.
Sources: VisitScotland, City of Edinburgh Council, National Records of Scotland.